Each egg is surrounded by it’s own individual protective membrane. If the eggs are pulled from the enclosure, they must be continuously hydrated until hatching. Add just enough water to cover the bottom of the dish and just touch the sides of the egg clutch. Daily misting and keeping lightly covered will maintain the humidity and provide enough water for the eggs to swell and develop. In just a day or two you will notice a ridge form on the surface of the egg, indicating the egg is fertile
As the cells continue to divide the embryo will take on it’s recognizable C-shape. In a few more days the gill filaments will form, these will be reabsorbed near the time of hatching and gill slits will form. Eggs generally take 12 – 18 days to hatch. When the tad is ready to hatch it will release an enzyme which causes the egg membrane to deteriorate. You will notice the tad is able to straighten out and eventually break free of the gel. It is important to add enough water to the petri dish by this time to ensure the tad is completely submerged and can get enough oxygen thru it’s gill slits.
The yolk sack will still be present and will continue to nourish the tad for the next few days. You will need to move the tadpole to a rearing cup within a day or two. 8oz deli cups work well for most tads, which should be reared individually except for P terribilis and Epipedobates which can be raised communally.
I like to prepare my rearing cups at least a week before the tads hatch. This gives the cups some time to establish a film of beneficial bacteria, which will help to eliminate tad waste and provide an additional food source for the tad. To each cup I add about 1 square inch of Indian Almond leaf (provides tannins, a beneficial bacterial slime and conditions the water), a small section of live water plant ( provide oxygen and eliminates waste) and about 1 inch of fresh dechlorinated water. I keep all my tad cups loosely covered to reduce evaporation and keep any airborn contaminants and dust out. I use a turkey baster to gently move the tad from the deli dish to rearing cup. It is important to be sure the water temperature of both containers are the same. 77°F is ideal, but they can tolerate temps from 65° - 80°F
The tad will not move much for the first few days after hatching. It is still absorbing it’s yolk sack and should not be fed for at least three days. The first feeding should be a very small amount of Sera Micron or other fine fry food. About the amount that can rest on top of the head of a pin. As they grow they can be fed more and varied foods. I use tadpole bites and various flake and pellet fish foods.
Tads are generally fed two or three times a week. Partial water changes every few weeks is beneficial but not mandatory. I usually just suck out the heaviest of waste particles and about 25% of the water with the turkey baster and top off with fresh tempered water.
I like to prepare my rearing cups at least a week before the tads hatch. This gives the cups some time to establish a film of beneficial bacteria, which will help to eliminate tad waste and provide an additional food source for the tad. To each cup I add about 1 square inch of Indian Almond leaf (provides tannins, a beneficial bacterial slime and conditions the water), a small section of live water plant ( provide oxygen and eliminates waste) and about 1 inch of fresh dechlorinated water. I keep all my tad cups loosely covered to reduce evaporation and keep any airborn contaminants and dust out. I use a turkey baster to gently move the tad from the deli dish to rearing cup. It is important to be sure the water temperature of both containers are the same. 77°F is ideal, but they can tolerate temps from 65° - 80°F
The tad will not move much for the first few days after hatching. It is still absorbing it’s yolk sack and should not be fed for at least three days. The first feeding should be a very small amount of Sera Micron or other fine fry food. About the amount that can rest on top of the head of a pin. As they grow they can be fed more and varied foods. I use tadpole bites and various flake and pellet fish foods.
Tads are generally fed two or three times a week. Partial water changes every few weeks is beneficial but not mandatory. I usually just suck out the heaviest of waste particles and about 25% of the water with the turkey baster and top off with fresh tempered water.
Rear legs usually form around 6 weeks or so, followed by front legs a few weeks later. Once the front legs pop, tads will stop eating, their gill slits will close up and they will begin breathing air. This is a critical time, they must have a way to make their transition onto land. Froglets can and will drown if they can’t get out of the water.
RSS Feed
