Most dart frogs reach breeding age around twelve months, Ameerega a bit sooner; terribilis up to two years. Once you have a confirmed pair there are a few things you can do to increase the chances your pair will breed. In nature dart frogs typically have a dry season and a wet season. Increasing the amount of misting to two to five times a day and increasing the amount of feeding and a variety of feeders will usually stimulate a pair to breed.
Proper nutrition and vitamin supplementation prior to breeding is important. Our frogs are supplemented twice a month with additional Vitamin A in the form of retinol, which is a usable form. There is much evidence that frogs do not have the ability to convert beta carotene into a usable form of vitamin A. Offering a fatty food, such as termites, flour beetle larvae or fruit fly larvae seems to produce larger and more frequent egg deposits.
I have good success with separating the pair from one another for a few weeks and then reintroducing the male to the females tank. Better yet is introducing a different male to the pair or playing a call of another male will also stimulate activity.
D tinctorius are best to maintain in pairs or a 2.1 group, meaning two males and one female. D auratus, P terribilis, D leucomelas, A galactonotus, Ameerega and others do fine in small groups.
Dart frogs do not perform amplexus when mating. In fact aggression and wrestling between same sexes might be misinterpreted as amplexus. Typically only males call and the female will show her interest by stroking or petting the males back. Less often a female will embrace the male frog. After some courting, the male frog will lead the female to a suitable place to deposit eggs. For larger frogs this will usually be a protected dark hollow with a smooth surface for laying eggs. We provide cocohuts or some other shelter over a petri dish or plastic lid.
Proper nutrition and vitamin supplementation prior to breeding is important. Our frogs are supplemented twice a month with additional Vitamin A in the form of retinol, which is a usable form. There is much evidence that frogs do not have the ability to convert beta carotene into a usable form of vitamin A. Offering a fatty food, such as termites, flour beetle larvae or fruit fly larvae seems to produce larger and more frequent egg deposits.
I have good success with separating the pair from one another for a few weeks and then reintroducing the male to the females tank. Better yet is introducing a different male to the pair or playing a call of another male will also stimulate activity.
D tinctorius are best to maintain in pairs or a 2.1 group, meaning two males and one female. D auratus, P terribilis, D leucomelas, A galactonotus, Ameerega and others do fine in small groups.
Dart frogs do not perform amplexus when mating. In fact aggression and wrestling between same sexes might be misinterpreted as amplexus. Typically only males call and the female will show her interest by stroking or petting the males back. Less often a female will embrace the male frog. After some courting, the male frog will lead the female to a suitable place to deposit eggs. For larger frogs this will usually be a protected dark hollow with a smooth surface for laying eggs. We provide cocohuts or some other shelter over a petri dish or plastic lid.
The male will introduce his sperm to this surface first and the female will then lay her eggs in the same place. It was often thought that if the egg cluster was pulled from the enclosure too soon, the male would not have a chance to fertilize the eggs. Many people recommended waiting at least 24 hrs or longer. We now know the males were not returning later to fertilize the eggs, but to hydrate the eggs to keep them moist until they can hatch. This is why it is important to always have a supply of fresh water in the enclosure. This can be just a few ounces in a small bowl. Dart frogs do not require running water or other large water features to breed.
It is not necessary to pull the eggs from the enclosure to hatch and rear yourself. Actually, you will miss one of the most satisfying parts of the hobby, which is seeing the male frog transport his tadpoles after they hatch to a source of water.
It is not necessary to pull the eggs from the enclosure to hatch and rear yourself. Actually, you will miss one of the most satisfying parts of the hobby, which is seeing the male frog transport his tadpoles after they hatch to a source of water.